Did you broke the screw when loosening / tightening it?
See how to easily remove the residue of screw on the example of the bleed screw in radiator of BMW E36.
Below residue of bleed screw in radiator BMW E36. Tightened the 1/4 turn too much… and the plastic screw was too weak to hang on it… 😉
Below you can see the small set, so that we can handle almost every brooken screw:
- set of drill extractors / unscrewers with universal grip (about 2 – 3 €)
- large star screwdriver
- screw or (in the case of a brooken metal screw) battery screwdriver / drill with a drill bit smaller than the screw
1. To unscrew the brooken screw at first drill it by electric drill, preferably with twice smaller diameter than the brooken screw. In this case task was easier due to the fact that the screw was made of plastic. Here you can use a heated flat screwdriver, than sink it in the plastic screw, wait until freeze and then unscrew the rest of screw. I didn’t have nothing near by car to heat up the screwdriver, so I used plain screw:
2. Po wkręceniu i wykręceniu wkręta, który zastąpił wiertło, wkręcamy wykrętak. Robimy to jednak odwrotnie niż zazwyczaj, ponieważ wykrętak ma odwrócony gwint, czyli kręcimy w lewo, tak jak byśmy wykręcali, a wykrętak zaczyna się wkręcać. Kiedy załapie już wystarczająco mocno zacznie się wykręcać razem z pozostałością śruby: After screwing and unscrewing a screw, which replaces in this case the drill, screw in slowly the unscrewer. We do, however, unlike usual as unscrewer has reversed /opposite thread, that we’re turning to the left, just as we would to twist and the screw should start to unscrew. When it starts to catch enough hard, then the residue of bleed screew starts to unscrew together with unscrewer:
3. It remains only enjoyable part – screwing in your new bleed screw 🙂
The whole operation takes up to half an hour.
Good luck 🙂